On the road to Upper Pesang, in one of the villages, in one of the houses, our attention pretty pastry lying behind the glass. They were so delicious and fresh that we could not resist a sweet tooth. Inside the house, the smoke from the stove, you could see the baker and his wife.At first they were surprised such a visit, but when they realized what was happening, then seated us and asking for a workout which is beans, baker began kneading the dough on sweets. It should be noted he did it professionally and observe his actions was nice.
By the time I was sentenced their beans, sweets already brown in oil. They were not filled, but different shapes and very, very tasty! Paying what little money and then taking on the road with steamed buns, completely happy, we moved on.
we were the upcoming elections: to go the classic route on the lower road or an alternative path to the top. Lower road passes through Lower Pesang – decent sized town, which even has its own helipad. It is situated on a wide flat floodplains of the river, and we did not pull back. The upper trail goes through the village of Upper Pesang, and she did not like the “namesake”. Located hundred meters up on a steep hill, it stands directly opposite the largest glacier, slowly sliding down from the summit of Annapurna II – this is the place for us!
The village looked dark, mysterious and long deserted. Little alarmed her neglected appearance, especially after deserted village Bhratang, where we met two tourists were desperately looking for accommodation. But we were starting to climb the narrow winding streets, woven stone houses, and here, gradually calmed down. Upper Pesang definitely fascinated by the atmosphere soaked surrealism. Houses incomprehensible design with small openings, only vaguely reminiscent of the window, the complete absence of chimneys and broken narrow alleys, and successive crossing each other – it all seemed mesmerized.From here, we felt some gothic tale heroes, and convince us there was no one, people in the village we have not met. Wandering through the Upper Pesang, my mind flashed the thought: “And people live here? At an altitude of 3300 meters? But why? There are also places in Nepal and better! With electricity, running water … and even if not that, then there is no need to go 100 meters down the water and then the same top! Not constant blowing cold wind, no snow lies for six months and do not light the stove in the smoke that had all the warmth in the house. ” So immersed in thought we stumbled upon a faint inscription «Hotel»! In the yard, “hotel” is not a soul, but trusting your inner impulse, we stopped briefly. Soon came to meet a tall woman with a dark seemed bloated face and smiled modestly offered to stay with her.The hotel is a small two-storey house leaned on a steep slope. On the ground floor give up a couple of rooms with small windows and the bed and room owners were located, toilet and shower. On the second floor you can get climbing the steep slope along the house. There was a tiny dining room with windows across the entire width, but we came for dinner later.
Backpacks stayed in the room, and we walked to the Buddhist temple, that seen on the approach to the village. He was small, but because of grooming and white walls stood out among the dark deaf village houses. Temple has not made much of an impression, apparently a recent renovation of the building stripped of his charm. But from here we saw the river valley Marsyangdi, gently hugs the Annapurna mountains.
Walking on Upper Pesang, we came to a long stone wall with “mani drums.” These “drums” came to Nepal from Tibet, and in each of them lies a special mantra. They have almost every mountain village, and in some meet twice – on the inlet and outlet. In any case, the wall with the “mani drums” are located on the main street or along the main path. Passing by to observe the ritual, it is necessary to leave the wall to the right and slightly outstretched hand scroll drums. Spin the reels symbolize harmony between the physical and the spiritual component of the action of man. The number of drums in one wall, can reach hundreds, and sometimes even more. Here and now, we walked along the wall stretched his right hand and left us a little thought, and instead, came peace and harmony with the environment.
We returned to the “hotel” and the hostess tried very hard to keep us nice and cozy. In cold kitchen-dining room she spread the fire and poured us hot tea with delicious herbs. She spoke little, and only in the case. Perhaps this was due to the language barrier, but it seemed to us that the hostess in principle not very talkative. The room in which we sat, divided into two parts and the partition separating the kitchen from the dining room was plastered with photographs and clippings from magazines. Here neighbors image owners with children and the Dalai Lama Buddhist shrines. Standing at the wall and looking at the pictures, we realized how closely intertwined with Buddhism family ties. In fact, the Dalai Lama was an honorary member of this family.
As for the food, it is not on the track is varied and mostly it’s the same dal-baht rice, bean sauce, cooked vegetables and sometimes roti (flat bread), meat or fish. Still, in this track, we learned about a tacit condition – a must eat where you stop for the night. So the room can cost 100 rupees (40 rubles), and sometimes even be free (eve and we got). However, the main item of expenditure is the food, which is closer to the pass much more expensive.
After dinner, we watched as the sky turns millions of lanterns were lit. Glow emanating from them was very cold, and emphasized the outlines of the mountain peaks. We sat outside, strong cold wind was blowing and the temperature quickly dropped below zero.After losing the battle wind, we went to bed, and his howling accompanied us in the room and we seem to hear him even in his sleep.
After breakfast, we went down, and the village in the morning sun changed. People here are still not there, but the house did not seem so bleak and deserted. There, in Upper Pesang, we first time in his life followed the birth clouds. Wind blowing snow and collected dust from the tops of the ridges, and the sun is just beginning its warm rays touch the ground, instantly transformed the tiny particles in pairs. We do not believe their eyes. Everything is so simple?
I had a feeling that we have touched something forbidden, to the fact that there is always hidden from view.